5 compuestos químicos peligrosos en tus cosméticos

5 compuestos químicos peligrosos en tus cosméticos

A lo largo de la historia las personas hemos buscado mejorar nuestra apariencia utilizando productos cosméticos. Mucho de ellos suelen ser inofensivos pero algunos otros poseen químicos dañinos que a la larga nos harán más mal que bien. Y sí, quizás dudes que los cosméticos como los pintalabios, polvo compacto, esmaltes de uñas, entre otros, contengan compuestos tóxicos, pero es la realidad, nos han expuestos a tantos sustancias perjudiciales que usamos diariamente.

belleza

Ahora bien, pensarás que estos compuestos tóxicos son solo encontrados en cosméticos no testeados o los llamados cosméticos replica o falsos. Pues no, también se encuentran en las grandes marcas de maquillaje y cosméticos en general.

La FDA (Food and Drug Administration: Agencia de Alimentos y Medicamentos o Agencia de Drogas y Alimentos) asegura que los niveles de estos compuestos son los permitidos e inofensivos para el ser humano, pero es necesario conocer los componentes de los productos que nos llevamos al cuerpo y en la medida que se puedan reemplazar por otros cosméticos libres de ellos, ya sea hechos con sustancias naturales, nos evitaremos de sufrir algún tipo de alergia u otro daño.

Luego de leer este artículo sé que no dejarás de revisar las etiquetas de cosméticos y asegurarte de quizás usarlo en menor medida. Recuerda que tu piel absorbe casi todo lo que le aplicas, así que es aconsejable que te acostumbres a utilizar los productos con menos frecuencia y darte un respiro de vez en cuando.

5. Parafenilendiamina

Conocido también como parafenilendiamina, p-fenilendiamina o 1,4 diaminobenceno, es una amina aromática que es usada fundamentalmente en la industria cosmética.

images

Este compuesto químico es un ingrediente frecuente en los tintes capilares permanentes y maquillaje oscuro. Se puede apreciar en la etiqueta del producto como colores «CI» seguidos de un número de cinco dígitos.

Como-teñirse-el-cabello-en-casa

La parafenilendiamina genera reacciones alérgicas y puede ser dañino a largo plazo, tanto en la persona que utiliza el tinte como en el profesional que lo aplica. Por tal razón, es común que los individuos que trabajan habitualmente con estos productos químicos desarrollen alergias a los mismos. Es importante tomar las precauciones necesarias como el uso de guantes y mascarillas para impedir entrar en contacto con ellos.

Reacción alérgica a los tintes
Reacción alérgica a los tintes

Aunque es más común desarrollar alergias por absorción dérmica, también puede ser por vías inhalatoria, digestiva y mucosas.

Se han hecho estudios para utilizar otros compuestos que no produzcan alergias como reemplazo de la parafenilendiamina, pero actualmente, es el único compuesto adecuado que permite conseguir un color parejo y que no se destiñe con el lavado del cabello.

4. Dihidroxiacetona

La dihidroxiacetona (también conocida como DHA) es un carbohidrato simple compuesto por 3 átomos de carbono, empleado como componente en productos cosméticos para el bronceado.

Molécula 3D de la dihidroxiacetona
Molécula 3D de la dihidroxiacetona

En la década de 1970 la FDA (Food and Drug Administration) agregó a la dihidroxiacetona a la lista de substancias cosméticas certificadas de manera permanente.

A pesar de que este compuesto ha sido aceptado en estudios realizados por la FDA, hay muchas consideraciones sobre el mismo que hay que tomar en cuenta.

Por ejemplo, en las 24 horas siguientes a la aplicación de un autobronceador, la piel está bastante sensible y propensa a sufrir daño por la luz solar, tal como se evidenció en el estudio efectuado en el año 2007 por los laboratorios Gematria Test Lab en Berlín, dirigido por Katinka Jung.

En dicho estudio los científicos trabajaron con muestras de piel con DHA y las expusieron al sol. Al pasar 40 minutos desde la aplicación, lograron hallar alrededor de 180% de radicales libres adicionales en las pieles que tenían DHA en relación con las pieles no tratadas. Por tal razón, después de aplicarse un autobronceador, es necesario evitar exponerse a largas o excesivas horas al sol sobre todo en las 24 horas siguientes a la aplicación. No obstante algunos autobronceadores incluyen filtros solares, pero su efecto no es tan duradero y confiable tras su aplicación.

mujer bronceada

Por su parte, el estudio de Jung ratificó los efectos preliminares en los que se planteaba que la DHA en mezclada con dimetil isosorbida eleva el proceso de bronceado. En este estudio igualmente se descubrió que la DHA podía poseer ciertos efectos perjudiciales en los aminoácidos y los ácidos nucleicos, lo cual no era muy recomendable para la piel.

No se ha comprobado que la dihidroxiacetona produzca directamente cáncer de piel, pero aún se siguen haciendo estudios y es importante disminuir el uso de este tipo de productos.

3. Ftalato de dibutilo

También conocido como DBP (Dibutilftalato), es un compuesto orgánico utilizado principalmente en la elaboración de esmaltes y perfumes, y aún se realizan estudios para comprobar que acrecienta la capacidad de otros químicos para originar alteraciones genéticas que generan dificultades en el aparato reproductivo.

Fórmula molecular del Ftalato de dibutilo
Fórmula molecular del Ftalato de dibutilo

De hecho en países de la Unión Europea y Estados Unidos, mediante un control legislativo, tienen prohibido el uso de este compuesto químico. En la Unión Europea se restringió bajo la Directiva 76/768/CEE del año 1976. Por su parte, en Estados Unidos se añadió a la «Proposición 65 de California» en la “Lista de teratógenos sospechosos”, en noviembre de 2006. Esta sustancia se observa con suma preocupación, ya que puede ser un disruptor endocrino, es decir, que puede ser capaz de alterar el equilibrio hormonal.

organizar-esmaltes-de-unas

En la actualidad se sigue empleando en algunos esmaltes de uñas, aunque todos los fabricantes destacados empezaron a suprimir esta sustancia en el otoño de 2006.

Quedará de parte de nosotros de leer las etiquetas y asegurarnos de que este tóxico compuesto no esté en nuestros esmaltes y perfumes.

2. Parabenos

Los parabenos son ésteres del ácido p-hidroxibenzoico también denominado ácido para-hidroxibenzoico (o ácido 4-hidroxibenzoico), de donde proviene su calificativo. Por tal razón, se designan PHB a las sales procedidas de estos compuestos, es decir, las letras iniciales del nombre para-HidroxiBenzoato.

Son usados en la industria cosmética ya que extienden la vida útil de los productos. Los parabenos más habituales son metilparabeno (methylparaben, Número E E-218), etilparabeno (ethylparaben, E-214), propilparabeno (propylparaben, E-216) y butilparabeno (butylparaben).

Parabenos
Parabenos

Estos son empleados en la elaboración de champús, sombra de ojos, polvos compactos, cremas hidratantes, desodorantes, geles para el rasurado, lubricantes sexuales, autobronceadores, entre otros.

cosmeticos

No obstante, existe una gran polémica acerca de los usos de los parabenos en los cosméticos, debido a que se cree que pueden producir efectos cancerígenos, y algunas organizaciones de la salud se resisten a su aplicación en la cotidianidad.

Un estudio realizado por Golden, Robert y otros (2005) reseñado en el libro A Review of the Endocrine Activity of Parabens and Implications for Potential Risks to Human Health. Critical Reviews in Toxicology (Una revisión de la actividad endocrina de los parabenos e implicaciones por los posibles riesgos para la salud humana. Revisiones críticas en toxicología) indica la reciente revisión de los datos disponibles y concluye de esta manera:

Es biológicamente inverosímil que los parabenos puedan aumentar el riesgo de cualquier variable mediada por los estrógenos, incluyendo efectos en el sistema reproductivo masculino o en el cáncer de mama; y el efecto de una exposición, en el peor de los casos, cotidiana, presentaría menos riesgos que los propios que tiene la ingestión en la dieta de fitoestrógenos como la daidzeína.

De igual manera, la Sociedad Americana de Cáncer (American Cancer Society) ha señalado que no existe certeza científica de que el empleo de cosméticos con parabenos acreciente el riesgo de padecer cáncer de seno.

parabenos cáncer de mama
Aún no se ha podido comprobar la relación entre el cáncer de mama y los parabenos

Aunque por ahora resulta un poco difícil relacionar el cáncer de mama con el uso de parabenos, tampoco se podría asegurar que la utilización de los mismos en cosméticos sea totalmente segura.

De hecho en España, la cadena de tiendas Eroski excluyó los parabenos en los productos de sus marcas, sustituyendolos por otros tipos de conservantes menos controversiales como el ácido ascórbico (Vitamina C).

1. Formaldehido

Es un compuesto químico, concretamente un aldehído altamente volátil y bastante inflamable, de fórmula H2C=O. El nombre designado por la IUPAC es metanal.

Molécula 3D del formaldehido
Molécula 3D del formaldehido

Este compuesto es empleado como conservante en la elaboración de productos cosméticos como champús, cremas para baño, sales yódicas para la higiene íntima femenina, geles, dentífricos, maquillaje, esmaltes de uñas, desodorantes, entre otros. De igual manera se ha estado utilizando en productos para alisar el cabello, pero se ha prohibido su uso en muchos países ya que genera un alto riesgo para la salud para las personas que trabajan en peluquerías y están expuestos constantemente a este ingrediente. Aunque aún son añadidos en productos clandestinos y son vendidos en comercios sin ninguna advertencia de toxicidad.

peluqueria keratina formaldehido daños
Los productos de alisado con keratina suelen tener mayor cantidad de formaldehido de lo que está permitido

Este compuesto era considerado como sospechoso pero para el año 2004 la Organización Mundial de la salud lo señaló oficialmente “cancerígeno”.

De igual manera, la Agencia Internacional para la Investigación del Cáncer en sus últimos informes lo ha clasificado en el grupo 1, Carcinógeno confirmado para humanos (cáncer nasofaríngeo).

Las leyes prohíben la utilización de compuestos cancerígenos en los productos alimenticios y cosméticos, pero aún se sigue empleando el formaldehido como conservante ya que resulta bastante económico. Lo que hacen las industrias fabricantes de cosméticos, es emplear otras sustancias que lo liberen, por ejemplo, el  Quaternium 15, Aldioxa, Bronosol, entre otras. El Quaternium 15 es una sal de amonio cuaternario que causa reacciones alérgicas y dermatitis. De hecho esta sustancia originó una gran controversia con la marca Johnson & Johnson, la cual al final aseguró que la retiraría de sus productos infantiles. Pero no está demás observar bien las etiquetas para asegurarnos de que no estén presentes estos ingredientes en los productos.

no-more-tears
Champú de bebés de la marca Johnson & Johnson

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